Split is Croatia's second city and the only one where people live inside a Roman palace built around AD 305. The airport is 25 km from the centre, and ferries to Brač, Hvar, Šolta and Vis leave from the harbour right below the Riva. We write this guide from Sukošan near Zadar, 160 km up the A1.
The centre of Split is Diocletian's Palace – the emperor built it as a retirement home around 305 and a few thousand people still live, cook and trade inside its walls. Entering the palace is free; you pay only for individual sights: the substructures (cellars) about €6, the Cathedral of St Domnius (originally Diocletian's mausoleum) about €7, the bell tower about €7, the Temple of Jupiter about €3 (2026). The Peristyle, the main courtyard, is the most photographed spot in town – come before 9 am or after 8 pm.
In front of the palace runs the Riva, a palm-lined promenade of cafés where locals meet from morning to midnight. West of the centre is Marjan, a forested hill (178 m) with viewpoints, walking trails and beaches at its foot. Split is also the biggest ferry port on the Adriatic – the ideal base if you want to mix city and islands. Owner-listed places are under apartments in Split; dinghies and yachts under boats in Split.
For a city of 160,000, Split has surprisingly good beaches, though July and August are packed:
A detailed list with distances and parking is in Plaze Split.
You cannot drive into the palace or onto the Riva – it is pedestrian. Surrounding streets are zoned: zone I cost €1.20/h in summer 2026, zone II €1.00/h, zone III €0.80/h, less in winter; pay by SMS or app. A free spot in zone I in season is practically impossible, so plan on a garage: Parking Riva by the ferry port charges €4 for the first hour and €5 for each further hour in summer (2026) – fine for an hour, not for a day. Cheaper are the municipal garages Sukoišan, Ruđera Boškovića or Dvornikovi dvori, 10–15 minutes' walk from the centre. Everything in detail in Parking in Split: zones, garages and 2026 prices.
City buses (Promet Split) cost about €1.50–2 per ride within one zone (2026); line 12 takes you up Marjan and line 37 runs to the airport and Trogir. The Riva, palace, market and port are all within 10 minutes' walk of each other. Uber and Bolt work; a ride across town is €6–12.
By air: Split Airport (Resnik, by Kaštela) is 25 km from the centre with year-round flights from London and seasonal ones from most UK airports, Dublin, Germany, Austria, Scandinavia, the Netherlands and the US East Coast in some years (Ryanair, easyJet, Jet2, British Airways, Lufthansa, Austrian). The airport shuttle to the main bus station is €9 and takes about 45 minutes; city bus 37 is about €3 and an hour; taxi or Uber €30–50 (2026).
By car: Zagreb 410 km on the A1 (about 4 hours, toll about €25 in 2026), Zadar 160 km, Dubrovnik 230 km along the coast. Tolls and vignettes are explained in Croatia motorway tolls 2026/2027: prices, ENC, no vignette.
By bus: frequent coaches from Zagreb (4.5–5 h), Zadar (2.5 h) and Dubrovnik (4–4.5 h); the station is right at the ferry port.
By ferry from Italy: Jadrolinija and SNAV run Ancona–Split, about 10–11 hours, usually overnight.
Split's food is central Dalmatian: grilled fish by weight (€50–70/kg in 2026), brudet fish stew, black risotto, pašticada with gnocchi on Sundays, and soparnik from Poljica (a thin chard pie) as street food. The morning Pazar market by the palace's east gate and the fish market (Peškarija) off Marmontova street are the best reason to get up early.
Konobas right on the Peristyle and the Riva charge for the view; better prices and fewer tourists are in the Varoš quarter below Marjan or around Matejuška, the fishermen's harbour at the end of the Riva. Coffee €2–3, lunch menu €12–18, dinner for two with wine €60–100. How to order in a konoba is in What to Eat in Dalmatia: Konoba Guide, Fish by the Kilo, 2026 Prices; bookable places are under restaurants in Split.
The ferry port is right below the Riva, and the islands are the main reason to choose Split as a base:
Three-island cruises and skippered boat hire are on the Boat rental page.
Tourist tax: Split has one of the highest in Croatia, about €2.50–3 per adult per night in the 2026 season, paid to your host. Details in Tourist tax in Croatia 2026/2027: rates, who pays, children.
Pharmacy and doctor: pharmacies in the centre (Marmontova, by the market), one on 24-hour duty; hospital KBC Split (Firule). Emergency number 112. EHIC/GHIC cards are accepted.
Season: July and August are crowded and expensive, sea 25–27 °C. May, June, September and early October are ideal for Split – the city is alive all year, unlike the islands.
Prices as a guide (2026): apartment for two in the centre €90–160/night in summer, outside the centre €60–100; beer €3.50–5, ice cream €2–2.50. For a quieter, cheaper base look at Trogir, 27 km west, or Makarska, 60 km south.